wNike introduced its collection of World Cup kits in late March, which was largely approved by fans and pundits. The US men’s national team got arguably the most distinctive pair of shirts in decades, while the other federations – France, Canada and Nigeria – earned strong reviews.
This month, when the players took to the field wearing the kit for the first time, many fans couldn’t help but focus on one singular detail of the new shirt: a somewhat unsightly bulge along the shoulder stitching.
On some kits – such as America’s striped home kit – the bulge was barely noticeable. In others, such as the elegant, modest shirt worn by French megastar Kylian Mbappe, it was borderline comical. Several of Uruguay’s players wore possibly the worst-fitting seams in a friendly against England, making them look a bit like the villain Shredder from Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles.
On social media and internet, fan informed Same problems with their own purchases. Some people reported some success in reducing the problem by using a steamer, or washing them before wearing. Others, like a Canadian fan who paid $135 for his shirt, were even more outraged.
“The way the shoulders are sewn together makes them bunch up like that no matter what,” that fan wrote on Reddit. “I think they might work if you have narrow shoulders – I have broad shoulders and there’s no way to make this shoulder line not bunch up. It’s a stupid, stupid design.”
Some people wondered if anyone at Nike was paying attention. He was.
In a statement to the Guardian, Nike acknowledged the issue seriously, and said they were considering what could be done about it – if anything.
“During the recent international break, we noticed a small issue with our Nike national team kits, which was most noticeable around the shoulder seams,” the company said through a spokesperson. “Performance is unaffected, but the overall aesthetic is not where it should be.”
In fact, it’s an uncharacteristic flub from the sportswear giant, which praised the design and technology of the kits when they were released. This summer’s World Cup outdoor matches, played in the US, Canada and Mexico, could be some of the most talked about matches ever played in the tournament’s history, with Nike saying the issue will be addressed through the “Aero-FIT” design that serves as the framework for all of its authentic World Cup kits.
“(Aero-FIT) leverages computational design and a highly specialized, stitch-specific knitting process to help athletes stay cool,” the company’s marketing materials read.
A source familiar with that design process told the Guardian this week that Nike’s “computational design” process is driven by performance data, and incorporates elements of AI to work with the company’s designers when designing a product. However, it is not yet known whether the error was in the design of the shirts, or in their production.
A source familiar with Nike’s rollout said Tuesday that the company is now in talks with partner federations and vendors as they consider next steps. It remains to be seen whether the kits will be redesigned in some way, and what – if any – recourse will be provided to fans who are dissatisfied with the fit of the shirt. In any case, fixing the issues will take a massive logistical lift, both because of the tight turnaround with the World Cup starting in two months, and because of the number of jerseys already sold.
“We are a global team of best-in-class designers, creators and dreamers who spend every day thinking about how to do something new, challenging ourselves and taking risks that drive beautiful games forward,” the company said in a statement to the Guardian. “We always hold ourselves and our products to the highest standards and this fell short. We’re working quickly to make it right for players and fans, as every kit must reflect the care, accuracy and pride that the game deserves.”
Nike has been making soccer kits since 1979, when they founded the Portland Timbers of the now-defunct North American Soccer League. They entered the European market in 1983 when they partnered with Sunderland and released their first national team shirt in 1994: a Nigeria strip that was used only once in a friendly against England. By 1995, they expanded that operation to include several other national teams, including the United States, who have used Nike since then, and will remain with them until at least 2033, when their current long-term agreement expires.
England have worn the Nike kit since 2013 and the current deal with the FA runs until 2030.
